CoachingAnswer

WHAT IS THE BEST TYRE PRESSURE FOR ROAD CYCLING?

By Anthony WalshRoadman CyclingUpdated 9 July 2026

ANSWER

For 25mm tyres on decent road surfaces, most riders are fastest at 70–90 psi (4.8–6.2 bar) — significantly lower than the 100–120 psi that was standard advice a decade ago. For 28mm tyres, drop to 60–80 psi (4.1–5.5 bar). Heavier riders need the higher end of the range; lighter riders the lower end. The right pressure depends on rider weight, tyre width, and road surface. Over-inflation is slower, not faster — it increases vibration losses that cost more speed than the small reduction in rolling resistance.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

25mm tyres: 70–90 psi (4.8–6.2 bar); 28mm tyres: 60–80 psi (4.1–5.5 bar) — adjust for weight.
Over-inflation is slower, not faster — vibration losses outweigh any reduction in rolling resistance.
Heavier riders need higher pressure; lighter riders need lower. A 60 kg rider and a 90 kg rider should not run the same PSI.
Wider tyres at lower pressure are faster on real roads than narrow tyres pumped hard — the data is settled.

WHO THIS IS FOR

IS THIS YOU?

The rider still pumping tyres to 110+ psi

You were taught to inflate hard and have never revisited the advice — the science has moved on significantly.

The cyclist upgrading to wider tyres

You have moved from 23mm to 25mm or 28mm tyres and want to know the correct pressure for the new width.

THE ROADMAN VIEW

The tyre pressure conversation has shifted fundamentally in the last five years, and most amateur riders have not caught up. The old rule — pump them as hard as possible — was based on lab testing on perfectly smooth drums where lower pressure meant more tyre deformation and higher rolling resistance. On real roads, with real vibrations, the maths reverses. A tyre pumped to 110 psi on a rough road surface bounces rather than rolling, and each bounce is energy that does not move you forward.

The research from SILCA, Bicycle Rolling Resistance, and aerodynamics specialists like Dan Bigham all points in the same direction: lower pressure, within reason, is faster on real roads. A 75 kg rider on 25mm tyres is fastest around 75–85 psi. A 65 kg rider should be at 70–75 psi. And on 28mm tyres — which most road riders should be running — the numbers drop further. The compliance the tyre provides at lower pressure absorbs road vibration, keeps the tyre in contact with the surface, and reduces the suspension losses that cost you watts.

Anthony has covered this on the podcast and in testing, and the practical takeaway is simple: drop your pressure by 10–15 psi from whatever you are running now, ride the same route, and pay attention. Most riders report better comfort, better grip in corners, and equal or faster times. The only risk is going too low and pinch-flatting — which modern tubeless setups have largely eliminated.

EXPERT EVIDENCE

WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY

Dan BighamFormer Hour Record holder, aerodynamics and marginal gains specialist
Tyre pressure is one of the largest free speed gains available to amateurs. Most riders are running 10–20 psi too high. The vibration losses from over-inflation on real roads cost more speed than the marginal rolling resistance reduction from a harder tyre. Lower pressure is faster, more comfortable, and grippier.
Hear it: He Accidentally Mastered Aerodynamics | Dan Bigham

PRACTICAL APPLICATION

DO THIS WEEK

Start with a weight-based baseline
For 25mm tyres: take your total system weight (rider + bike + kit) in kg, and start at roughly 0.9–1.0 psi per kg. A 75 kg rider with a 9 kg bike and 2 kg kit = 86 kg system weight, so start at 77–86 psi. For 28mm tyres, reduce by 10–15 psi from that figure.
Use a tyre pressure calculator
SILCA's free tyre pressure calculator accounts for rider weight, tyre width, and road surface. Input your numbers and use the result as a starting point. Then fine-tune by feel over a few rides — drop 2 psi at a time until the tyre feels compliant without squirming in corners.
Run different pressures front and rear
The rear tyre carries roughly 55–60% of the system weight. Run the rear 3–5 psi higher than the front. A typical 75 kg rider on 25mm tyres might run 72 psi front and 77 psi rear. This improves front-end grip and comfort without sacrificing rear-tyre support.

COMMON MISTAKES

WHAT CYCLISTS GET WRONG

MISTAKEPumping tyres to the maximum pressure printed on the sidewall.
FIXThe sidewall number is the maximum the tyre can safely hold, not the optimal riding pressure. Riding at max pressure is almost always too hard for real-world conditions. Treat the sidewall figure as a ceiling, not a target.
MISTAKERunning the same pressure regardless of tyre width.
FIXWider tyres need lower pressure. A 28mm tyre at 90 psi is over-inflated for almost every rider. Drop pressure as tyre width increases — the wider casing supports the same load with less internal pressure.
MISTAKENot owning a track pump with a gauge.
FIXSqueezing the tyre with your thumb is not a calibration method. A decent track pump with an accurate gauge costs less than two inner tubes and lets you set and repeat the correct pressure every ride.

FAQ

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Does lower tyre pressure cause more punctures?

On clincher tyres with tubes, running too low risks pinch flats (snake bites) where the rim compresses the tube against a sharp edge. Tubeless tyres largely eliminate this risk. If running tubes, stay above the lower limit where the tyre starts to feel vague in corners — that is the floor.

Should I change tyre pressure for wet roads?

Drop pressure by 5–10 psi in wet conditions. Lower pressure increases the contact patch, which improves grip on slippery surfaces. The speed penalty is negligible and the safety gain is significant. Cornering in the wet on over-inflated tyres is properly dangerous.

What pressure should I run on a turbo trainer?

For direct-drive trainers (no tyre contact), pressure is irrelevant. For wheel-on trainers, run the same outdoor pressure — over-inflating for the trainer causes uneven tyre wear and distorts the power reading. If using a dedicated trainer tyre, follow its specific pressure recommendation.

Is tubeless worth it for pressure optimisation?

Yes. Tubeless tyres let you run 5–10 psi lower than clincher setups without puncture risk, because there is no tube to pinch. The sealant handles small punctures. The lower pressure is faster, more comfortable, and grippier — which is the entire point of optimising pressure.

How often should I check tyre pressure?

Before every ride. Butyl tubes lose 1–2 psi per day; latex tubes and tubeless lose more. A tyre at 80 psi on Monday can be at 70 psi by Thursday — that is a meaningful difference. Check and pump before every ride with a floor pump with a gauge.

What about gravel and mixed-surface riding?

Gravel tyres (35–45mm) run at 30–50 psi depending on tyre width, rider weight, and surface. Lower pressure provides better traction and comfort on loose or rough surfaces. Tubeless is almost mandatory for gravel to avoid constant pinch flats at the pressures that actually work.

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