WHO THIS IS FOR
IS THIS YOU?
The rider struggling on steep climbs
You find yourself grinding at low cadence and blowing up on anything above 8%, and you suspect your gearing might be part of the problem.
The cyclist spec'ing a new bike or upgrading groupset
You are choosing between cassette sizes or chainring options and want a practical recommendation based on your terrain and ability.
THE ROADMAN VIEW
The Roadman view
There is a peculiar pride in road cycling about running a small cassette. Riders will bolt on an 11-25 because that is what their hero uses in the Tour, then spend every climb in the red, grinding at 55 rpm and wondering why their knees hurt. Anthony has talked about this repeatedly: amateur riders are not professionals. A World Tour rider at 5.5 W/kg with a 39x28 as their easiest gear is already spinning comfortably at 80 rpm on a 10% gradient. An amateur at 3 W/kg with the same gearing is mashing at 55 rpm and producing less power because of it.
The fix is absurdly simple: fit a bigger cassette. An 11-34 with a compact 50/34 chainset gives you a bottom gear of 1:1, which lets a 75 kg rider spin at 70 rpm on a 12% gradient at around 200 watts. That is sustainable. That is comfortable. That is how you get to the top without your legs shutting down halfway up. Modern 12-speed groupsets from Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo accommodate 34-tooth cassettes without any compromise — the gear steps are tight enough that you barely notice the wider range on the flat.
The practical rule: if you regularly encounter gradients above 8% and your W/kg is below 4, you want a 32- or 34-tooth bottom sprocket. If your terrain is consistently steep — Alpine passes, UK moorland climbs, anything in the Basque Country — go for the 34 without hesitation. Being in the right gear and spinning smoothly is faster than being in a gear that is too hard and detonating before the summit.
EXPERT EVIDENCE
WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY
- Matt BottrillBritish TT champion and amateur cycling coach
One of the simplest changes amateur riders can make is fitting appropriate gearing. Riding in too hard a gear on a climb forces low cadence, recruits more fast-twitch muscle fibres than necessary, and accelerates fatigue. A wider cassette range costs almost nothing in terms of flat-road performance and saves you on every climb.
Hear it: 7 Hacks Pro Riders Use That You Probably Don't | Matt Bottrill - Roadman CyclingRoadman Cycling climbing coverage
Climbing faster is rarely about having a harder gear — it is about maintaining the right cadence to sustain your power output. Most amateur riders who improve their climbing do so by gearing down and spinning up, not by pushing a bigger gear. A 34x34 bottom gear is not a sign of weakness; it is a sign you understand your physiology.
Hear it: Climbing Faster — Five Fixable Mistakes | Roadman Cycling Podcast
PRACTICAL APPLICATION
DO THIS WEEK
Audit your current lowest gear ratio
Check your smallest chainring and largest rear sprocket. Divide the chainring teeth by the sprocket teeth. If the result is above 1.2 and you regularly ride 8%+ gradients at under 4 W/kg, your gearing is too hard for climbing. Use the Roadman Gear Ratio Calculator to see exact development figures at different cadences.
Swap your cassette before replacing the chainset
Going from an 11-28 to an 11-32 or 11-34 cassette is the cheapest upgrade with the biggest climbing impact. Most modern derailleurs accommodate 34-tooth sprockets — check your derailleur's maximum sprocket capacity before buying. This is a $50–80 swap that transforms steep climbs.
Test your cadence on a reference climb
Ride a climb you know well and note your cadence in the easiest gear. If you are below 65 rpm and struggling to sustain power, you need a lower gear. Aim for 70–85 rpm on sustained climbs — that is the range where most cyclists produce the best power with the least muscular fatigue.
COMMON MISTAKES
WHAT CYCLISTS GET WRONG
MISTAKECopying professional riders' gear ratios despite having half their watts per kilogram.
FIXMatch gearing to your power output and the gradients you ride, not to what a Tour de France rider uses. A 75 kg amateur at 3 W/kg needs fundamentally different gearing from a 65 kg pro at 6 W/kg.
MISTAKEAssuming a bigger cassette will slow you down on the flat.
FIXOn a modern 12-speed groupset, the gear steps between sprockets on an 11-34 cassette are close enough that flat-road performance is essentially identical to an 11-28. The trade-off is negligible; the climbing benefit is real.
MISTAKEIgnoring cadence data and relying on perceived effort alone.
FIXInstall a cadence sensor or use your power meter's cadence reading. If your climbing cadence consistently drops below 60 rpm, your gearing is wrong — regardless of how strong you feel. Low cadence means high muscular load, which means faster fatigue.
FAQ
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
What does gear ratio actually mean?
Is a compact chainset (50/34) better than a standard (52/36) for climbing?
Should I consider a sub-compact or gravel chainset for very steep terrain?
Does a wider-range cassette affect shifting quality?
How do I know if my derailleur can handle a bigger cassette?
What gear ratio do the pros use for mountain stages?
RELATED EPISODES
HEAR THE CONVERSATIONS
RELATED TOPICS