If I go now to 360, I mean, oh, I'm going to hold 360 to the top. Save my next test. I'm going to want to improve. It's also a 370. I'm not going to start a 370 on the nose. I like to segment it into 4 or 5 minute sections. And those 4 or 5 minute sections, I'll try negative split. So I'll start out at 360, then I'll try and bring it up to up to tree 64, then I'll try and go to 370, then I'll try and finish up a tree 75. I'm not gonna spring a massive surprise in this test. The only surprise would be if the wheels come off, if a tree 60, I'm going, oh my God, I can't hold this. Instead of going up to tree 65 for my second five minutes, I may be just trying to consolidate and hold the tree 60. And if I can build in the last quarter, a little bit I do. But if not, you just hang on for dear life. out and around field testing. For me it's the best way, it's easiest for motivation. You have a few corners, those visual benchmarks. When you're on the bike on the WAP bike, 20 minutes, it's pretty grim, it's a lonely place for 20 minutes. You take 95% of your 20 minute test, you plug it into a threshold. Actually, you know what? I will get a threshold calculator and I'll link it down below. So pop your email in and I'll set it up where you just get emailed the threshold calculator automatically. The threshold calculator is definitely something that it's really good when we get into explaining what the zones are and why zones are important and why it's different to trying different intensities. The threshold calculator will actually save me, have to explain some Really laborious points where I'm talking about zone one and here's the physiological adaptations you get zone two And here's the physiological adaptations. I'll include all that I build all that I'm not showing into this own calculator And you guys can download that for free. Okay, so you take your 20 minute test get your 95% of it Ping it into our threshold calculator and that's gonna break it down and it's gonna give you your zone So you're gonna have your zone ones on two zone trades on for zone five and you're gonna have an associated Physiological benefit you're gonna get from training in that zone So example, if you want to burn fast, build mitochondria, increase endurance, you're gonna try it in zone one and zone two. So depending on the results you put in, it's gonna give you different power levels. You need to try and to get those benefits. If you want to increase muscular endurance, it's gonna have a zone you need to try and infra-life. You want to increase neuromuscular power, it's gonna have a zone. If you want to increase peak force, it's gonna have a zone. So it's really cool. It's really it just means I actually put out a blog today, depending on when you're listening to this, but it's on medium. I will, yeah I link the blog as well. I give them a lot of links down below and you need to start setting up a show notes page because it's just gonna be scattered with links. But the blog down below is talking about the number one trying to mistake I see people make and the number one trying to mistake I see people make is they don't have a parameter, they don't have a heart rate monitor, so what happens is they end up going out and roiding coin a heart, coin of the average speed culture. I call it headless chicken roiding because they're not going out with a plan. The plan they're going out with, it's kind of hardy or rather than cycling. The plan they're going out with is to roid coin a heart, especially if you're time crunched and you're trying to get this session in before a worker, after a walk, what ends up happening is you end up in what you'll see when you get this threshold calculator is zone 3. Because zone 1's on 2 feels too easy. Zone 4 feels unachievably hard so you gravitate towards zone 3. And there's nothing wrong with riding around in zone 3. In zone 3 you'll get a set of physiological adaptations but you're not going to get the physiological adaptations from riding in zone 1's on 2. Zone 4 is on 5's on 6. in zone 3 you only get the adaptations associated with zone 3. So if you spend 95% of your time, of your available training time, training one zone and neglecting all the other zones, when it comes time to race, when it comes time to go and do your Mallorca tree one two, when it comes time to go and do your sporty and you go into the base of a climb and you throw it in zone four, your body's in pure shock, it starts building lactate really fast, doesn't know how to clear because it hasn't encountered it.
Now I look at a chart because we've had hundreds of tells and some people do it is since the advent of the power meter. Now I look at your chart and I plot it and I say ah okay Johnny is a cat for 10 second power but he's a cat 2 on 1 minute power and then he's a cat 4 on 4 minute power and he's a cat 4 on 20 minute And I'm looking at it and I'm going, ah, okay, so Johnny is a count two on one minute power but he races in count four. So now I can look around the courses around, say we're based in Ireland and I go, okay, well of course has a one minute drag or of course has a one minute challenge and then I can say we can increase Johnny's chances of success because relative to Johnny's peers he's a very strong one minute power. So now we call this power profiling. So now using a course that has a difficult one minute section and Johnny's tactic for that race becomes wack at full gas for that one minute section because other CAF4s aren't going to be able to follow you and we statistically increase the likelihood that Johnny is going to win that race or achieve separation from the break. It becomes a super interesting tool when we dig a little bit deeper into that. I'm going to dig deeper on how we use it on the next follow-up podcast on this, but I want to talk briefly about brands Because like I said in my falsified student loan application. I ended up paying 2000 euro for my SRM But right now I'm thinking 500 to 800 euro is going to get you a lot of value in the power meter market actually before I came on here I was just looking at a review DC Rainmaker has it on YouTube It's an old one I've gone to check and since that they're actually in production. It's IQ squared 150 euro for a parameter. I can't speak to its Quality because I haven't used it but the review looks pretty legit might be worth checking out But I think there's not one best parameter out there There is a best parameter for your needs and there's a best parameter for your budget. So Let me explain so the different ones that I've had that I've you know, I have experience with and it's pretty much, there's some of the newer brands I haven't used like IQ squares but I've used most of them at this stage. Wheel-based power meter is a very good option. Power top, the original polyneres and the power meter markers, there you go too for this. I think the new hub, it's the G3 hub. You're in that five to 800 euro price bracket, dependent on spout, you go with type of rim, you go with. And void wheel-based is very good. It's reliable. We don't have left-right discrimination, which is a little bit of a drawback. So I can't tell if I have a, you know, a disbalance between my left leg and my right leg. But the best way to actually just get around that is if you have a friend or a gym who has a walkbike, go jump on that. That has left-right discrimination. If you're 48, 52, 49, 51, 50, 50, you don't have any major noteworthy discrimination. So you don't need to worry about a parameter that does left right balance. In my experience, 95% to 99% of clients I've met have no need for left right discrimination. So the power tap is brilliant for that. Super easy to change from your time trial bike to your row bike to your cyclocross bike onto your commute bike and you have power on everything because as we'll get into the next podcast on this, having continuity of your data is super important. The drawback you're stuck with this one wheel. So if you race and you try on two different wheels, like most of us do, you're going to need two different parameters. You're going to need a race, a wheel and a training wheel, a bit of nine. And also having a gap in the data, especially from races is not ideal at all. Pedal based has emerged in the last couple of years. Companies like Garmin have come out with them, PowerTap also have them. Benefits, easy to move from one bike to the other, a few accuracy problems. And for me, I've never had a crash where I've smashed a crank, I've had plenty of crashes where I've smashed a pedal. I've even smashed a pedal off the wall, you know, loading bikes in our cars, you have leaned against a wall, bringing up the stairs to my apartment, I'm buying pedals all the time. For me, I won't use a pedal based power meter, the reliability issues, but also just, it's a delicate piece of case and you're exposing it to a lot of risk. Your pedals are going to to hit the ground. Pedals and bar tape, hit the ground, look at your pedals, better scraped up.
If your pedals are scraped up, stay away from this. Crank arm is a very nice way to go at the moment. Companies like stages are doing a crank arm and it's possible to swap the crank arm. If you assume and you're using the same group set on your China boykin, your race boykin, it's possible to swap the crank arm across pretty easily. It's a couple of volunteers, you'll do it in a second. And stages have had issues with water when it rains really heavy. Their reliability is gone. Actually not their reliability, they stop working and you need to send them back. That is a pain in the ass. Upside that stages have been very, very good at customer service. So they're something I would recommend having used them. But if you can afford a slightly higher price point, you're looking at kind of the 800-foot and your remark, it's chainsets. So you're looking at things like Quark SRMs, a bit more expensive, power to max. The drawback, very hard to swap over now. Unless you're fairly proficient at bike maintenance, it's difficult to swap over, especially with the plethora of bottom brackets we have on the market now. What I was, had my SRM between my training bike, race, bike and time-troll bike, they were all using OctaLink bottom brackets. It took five minutes to swap it over. now you're probably BB-tority, BB-Royce, press-face, you know, there's so many buck brackets out there. It's unlikely all your bikes have the same buck and bracket, so it's going to be difficult to swap it over. Also a drawback on the chain set is your chain set's not going to match your group set. So I have, I've had chain sets, parameters before and the chain sets won't match your integrity or your duration or whatever you're using a bit of a drawback but the crank sets are the way to go for reliability. They're the way to go for durability. I think the crank arm is actually the best compromise if I've always had people at the moment. I think the crank arm gives the best bang for the buck. That change ability still has the reliability few issues but the customer service is really good. Things I would look out for when you're getting a parameter. I would look out for a company that has good warranty, you're going to have issues regardless of what parameter you go with, you're going to have issues. They're complicated pieces of technology, we're out in the elements all the time so ensure it has good customer service. I touched on the single sided the left right discrimination, if you don't have left right discrimination, I don't see a problem with going with a wheel based which has a combined left and right in one or just a single sided parameter. And just a couple of Q-factor actually as well as warts talking about Q-factor is the width. So if you go with a pedal based crank or pedal based power meter, it can increase the Q-factor. That's sort of the width that apart. That is the changes that so we can bring it out another 10 mil which can muck your position a bit. But typically studies that I've seen is only mucks with your power output. Like if you're to test on your bike straight after going to a new queue factor, you're gonna have impaired results, but after a week or so, that normalizes and you'll be back to normal. Also important is just make sure you always run your firmware updates. This stuff's changing all the time, so lace firmware update is essential for your parameter to record accurately. and make sure you zero offset it before every roll it. Some of them automatically zero offset, zero offset, it says calibration. If you're using a Garmin or also if you're using a Wahoo, it's not actually a calibration, calibration something different, it's just a zero offset. It's like jumping onto the bathroom, weighing scales and making sure it actually reads zero before you jump on. Okay, they are some things to really bear in mind before getting a power meter. I'm gonna get into it in the next podcast of making this a two part one, how we use the data, what is training stress, how we work backwards from our goal, what's chronic training load, acute training load, training stress balance, and really getting the most out of our parameter. So I really hope you enjoyed that. Check the link down below for that strength and condition because that is an essential piece. I'm gonna pop those other links I mentioned in the description as well. Thanks for listening, road man. And I'll chat to you in the next one.