CoachingAnswer

HOW DO I CHOOSE THE RIGHT SADDLE?

By Anthony WalshRoadman CyclingUpdated 26 May 2026

ANSWER

Choose a saddle by your sit bone width first — measure it, then pick a saddle roughly 20–30mm wider so your bones bear the load, not your soft tissue. Match the shape to how you ride: flatter saddles suit riders who move around and sit upright, waved saddles suit a fixed aggressive position. A central cut-out or channel relieves perineal pressure for most riders. Price and pro-team logos tell you almost nothing — the right saddle is the one that fits your anatomy and position, and that often isn't the expensive one.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

Sit bone width plus 20–30mm is the starting number — a saddle too narrow loads soft tissue instead of bone.
Shape follows position: flat saddles for movers and upright riders, waved saddles for a locked aggressive position.
A cut-out or pressure-relief channel helps most riders, especially in lower positions where weight shifts forward.
Price is not a fit signal — comfort comes from matching anatomy and position, not from spending more.

WHO THIS IS FOR

IS THIS YOU?

The rider who's tried three saddles and still aches

You keep buying saddles on reviews and recommendations and none of them solve the numbness or pressure.

The rider setting up a new bike or position

You want to get the saddle right from the start rather than work through the expensive trial-and-error route.

THE ROADMAN VIEW

Saddle choice is where a lot of riders waste real money. Anthony has seen it in the community inbox over and over: someone's on their fourth saddle, they've spent the best part of £600, and they're still going numb. The problem is they're buying by review and by logo, not by anatomy. A saddle that's perfect for a mate with different sit bones and a different position is the wrong saddle for you.

The starting point is boring and it works: measure your sit bones. Most decent bike shops will do it in two minutes with a piece of memory gel or cardboard, and plenty of riders are stunned to find they've been riding a saddle 20mm too narrow for years. When the saddle is too narrow, your bones slip off the sides and your weight lands on soft tissue — which is exactly the pressure and numbness you've been blaming on everything else. Phil Burt has made this point on the podcast: width is the variable people get wrong before they get anything else wrong.

After width comes shape, and shape follows your position. If you sit fairly upright and shift around the saddle a lot, a flatter profile lets you move. If you're locked low and aggressive, a waved saddle with a defined nose supports you in one spot. The cut-out question is mostly settled for most riders now — a channel or relief cut-out takes pressure off the perineum, and it matters more the lower and more forward you ride. The honest truth is the right saddle is findable, but it starts with a measurement, not a credit card.

EXPERT EVIDENCE

WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY

Phil BurtFormer Team Sky and British Cycling physiotherapist and bike fitter
Most riders choose a saddle by recommendation or appearance rather than by their own anatomy, and saddle width is the variable they get wrong most often. The saddle must be wide enough to support the sit bones; when it isn't, the rider's weight falls onto soft tissue and pressure problems follow no matter how premium the saddle is.
Hear it: 5 Bike Fit Mistakes | Roadman Cycling Podcast
Dr Andy PruittPioneer of medical-based bike fitting; founder of the Boulder Center for Sports Medicine
The right saddle supports the rider on the bony structures of the pelvis and relieves pressure on the soft tissue and perineum. Saddle choice is a function of the rider's anatomy and their riding position together — there is no universally best saddle, only the right saddle for a specific rider in a specific position.
Hear it: The Correct Bike Fit Simplified | Dr Pruitt

PRACTICAL APPLICATION

DO THIS WEEK

Measure your sit bone width before you shop
Sit on a piece of corrugated cardboard or a sit-bone measuring gel in your riding posture, then measure between the two deepest impressions. Add 20–30mm to that number — that's your target saddle width. Many shops and brands offer this measurement free, and it instantly cuts your saddle options down to the ones that actually fit you.
Match the saddle profile to your position
Flat saddle: for riders who sit more upright and move fore-and-aft. Waved or curved saddle: for riders locked in an aggressive low position who want support in one spot. Look at how you actually ride — if you're always shifting around, a fixed waved profile will fight you.
Use a demo programme before committing
Most premium saddle brands and good bike shops run a demo or test-ride scheme. Borrow a saddle that matches your width and shape, ride it for two or three real rides, and only buy once you've confirmed it on the road. This is far cheaper than buying blind and stacking up rejects in a drawer.
Set the new saddle up properly before judging it
A new saddle changes your contact height and reach slightly. Re-check saddle height (the top surface may sit higher or lower than the old one), level the saddle, and adjust fore-aft so your knee position stays correct. A good saddle set up wrong will feel like a bad saddle.

COMMON MISTAKES

WHAT CYCLISTS GET WRONG

MISTAKEBuying the saddle a pro or a mate rides.
FIXTheir sit bone width and position aren't yours. Measure your own sit bones and buy to your anatomy, not someone else's recommendation.
MISTAKEAssuming a more expensive saddle is more comfortable.
FIXPrice buys lighter materials, not better fit. A correctly sized £60 saddle beats a £300 one that's the wrong width every time.
MISTAKEJudging a saddle on the first ride.
FIXGive a correctly sized saddle two or three rides to settle, and make sure it's set up at the right height and tilt first. Snap judgements bin good saddles that just needed adjusting.

FAQ

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

How do I measure my sit bone width at home?

Sit on a piece of corrugated cardboard placed on a carpeted stair or firm chair, lean forward into your riding posture for a few seconds, then stand up and measure between the centres of the two deepest dents. That distance is your sit bone width. Add 20–30mm for your target saddle width.

Do I need a saddle with a cut-out?

Most riders benefit from a central channel or cut-out, especially in lower, more forward positions where weight shifts off the sit bones toward the perineum. It relieves pressure on the soft tissue and the nerves and blood vessels that run through it. A small number of riders find the edges of a cut-out create pressure instead — which is why demoing matters.

Are women's-specific saddles necessary?

Some women are well served by women's-specific saddles, which tend to be wider at the rear and have a shorter or more relieved nose to suit different pelvic anatomy. But it's not universal — sit bone width and personal anatomy matter more than the label. Measure first and choose by fit, regardless of how the saddle is marketed.

Why does my saddle feel fine on short rides but awful after two hours?

Short-ride comfort hides fit problems that only show up under sustained pressure. A saddle slightly too narrow or set at the wrong tilt feels acceptable for 30 minutes, then loads soft tissue progressively over hours. If a saddle is great for an hour and miserable at two, the width or setup is the cause, not the padding.

Should a saddle be soft or firm?

Firmer than most beginners expect. A very soft saddle lets your sit bones sink in until the soft tissue between them takes the load — the opposite of what you want. A firm saddle of the correct width supports the bones and keeps pressure off the perineum. Comfort comes from correct width and shape, not from thick padding.

How long does a saddle last?

A quality saddle lasts several years and thousands of kilometres, but the shell and rails can fatigue and the cover can wear. If a saddle that was comfortable starts causing new pressure, or you notice a sag or crack in the shell, it may have broken down internally. Replace it rather than trying to adjust around a worn saddle.

RELATED EPISODES

HEAR THE CONVERSATIONS

5 Bike Fit Mistakes | Roadman Cycling Podcast

The Correct Bike Fit Simplified | Dr Pruitt

I Tried A Bike Fit From Team GB Bike Fitter (Here's What Happened)