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HOW DO I GET FASTER ON A BIKE?

By Anthony WalshRoadman CyclingUpdated

WHO THIS IS FOR

IS THIS YOU?

The rider stuck at the same pace

You have been riding consistently but your average speed has plateaued and you want a clear framework for where the gains actually are.

The newcomer chasing faster group rides

You want to move from being dropped to sitting comfortably in the bunch and eventually contributing to the front.

THE ROADMAN VIEW

The Roadman view

Speed is what everyone asks about, but most riders chase it by doing the wrong thing harder. They ride every session at the same moderate-hard intensity, never truly easy and never properly hard. The result is a grey zone that grinds fatigue without producing adaptation. The single biggest change for most amateurs is not a new wheelset or more hours — it is polarising their training so the easy rides are properly easy and the hard days are structured and purposeful.

After training distribution, the next-biggest lever is aerodynamics — and it is the one almost nobody addresses. At 30 km/h, roughly 80% of the resistance you fight is air. A lower, narrower position on the hoods, tucking elbows in, wearing a tighter jersey, even shaving your legs — these are free watts. John Archibald has spoken about how a few centimetres of frontal area reduction can equal the output of months of interval training. Most amateurs ride bolt-upright with loose clothing and then wonder why the watt gains from their turbo sessions do not show up on the road.

The remaining levers — raising FTP through threshold and VO2max work, managing body weight without starving yourself, and fuelling rides properly so you can actually complete hard sessions — are all interconnected. You cannot raise FTP if you are under-fuelled, and you cannot hold a good aero position if your core is weak and your hamstrings are tight. Speed is a system problem, not a single variable. Fix the biggest bottleneck first, and the rest follows.

EXPERT EVIDENCE

WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY

  • John ArchibaldHour Record holder, aerodynamics specialist

    At typical amateur speeds, a small change in frontal area — dropping your hands from the tops to the hoods and tucking your elbows — can save 15-25 watts. That is the equivalent of weeks of structured training, and it costs nothing. Most amateur riders are leaving 1-2 km/h on the table purely through position.

    Hear it: How To Ride Faster Than 98% Of People | John Archibald
  • Professor Stephen SeilerExercise physiologist, polarised-training researcher

    When recreational athletes shift from an unstructured, moderate-intensity approach to a polarised 80/20 distribution, they typically see measurable performance improvements within 6-8 weeks. The gains come not from doing more work, but from doing the right work at the right intensity — and recovering properly between sessions.

    Hear it: 80/20 Training to Ride Faster | Dr Stephen Seiler

PRACTICAL APPLICATION

DO THIS WEEK

  1. Audit your intensity distribution this week

    Review your last 4 weeks of ride data. If more than 25% of your time is in Zone 3 (tempo) and less than 75% is in Zones 1-2, your distribution is wrong. Slow your easy rides down — properly conversational pace — and redirect that saved energy into one or two properly structured hard sessions per week.

  2. Improve your riding position for free speed

    On your next solo ride, spend 10 minutes riding on the hoods with elbows bent and tucked in, head low, and shoulders narrow. Use your power meter or speed on a flat windless stretch to measure the difference versus your normal position. Even 5 watts saved is 0.3-0.5 km/h at 30 km/h — for zero extra effort.

  3. Add one structured session per week targeting your weakest limiter

    If your FTP is the bottleneck, add a threshold session (2x20 min at 95-105% FTP). If your VO2max ceiling is holding FTP down, add a VO2max session (5x4 min at 106-120% FTP). One quality session per week is enough to move the needle when the rest of your riding is properly easy.

COMMON MISTAKES

WHAT CYCLISTS GET WRONG

  • MISTAKEBuying faster equipment before addressing fitness and position.

    FIXA set of deep-section wheels saves perhaps 5-10 watts. Fixing your riding position and training distribution can save 20-40 watts. Spend the time before spending the money.

  • MISTAKERiding every session at the same moderate pace.

    FIXGrey-zone riding — too hard to recover from, too easy to produce adaptation — is the most common speed killer in amateur cycling. Polarise your week: properly easy rides and properly hard sessions, with very little in between.

  • MISTAKEChasing speed by losing weight instead of building power.

    FIXUnder-fuelling suppresses the hard training sessions that raise FTP. A rider who drops 3 kg but loses 15 watts of FTP is slower, not faster. Build power first, let body composition follow from consistent training and sensible eating.

FAQ

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

How much faster can I get by improving aerodynamics?
At 30 km/h, switching from an upright position on the tops to a tucked position on the hoods can save 15-25 watts, which translates to roughly 1-2 km/h on the flat. At higher speeds the gains are even larger because aerodynamic drag scales with the cube of velocity. No other single change delivers this much speed for zero physical cost.
How long does it take to get noticeably faster on a bike?
With structured training (3-4 rides per week, one hard session, proper recovery), most riders see measurable FTP improvement within 6-8 weeks. Speed gains on the road depend on terrain and conditions, but a 10-15 watt FTP increase — realistic in two months — adds roughly 0.5-1 km/h on the flat.
Does losing weight make you faster on a bike?
On climbs, absolutely — every kilogram costs roughly 2-3 watts per percent gradient. On the flat, weight matters much less than aerodynamics and raw power. The risk is losing weight by under-eating, which suppresses the training that builds the power you actually need. Manage body composition through fuelled training, not restriction.
Do more expensive bikes make you faster?
A lighter, more aerodynamic frame can save a few watts, but the gains are marginal compared to rider fitness and position. The difference between a well-fitted mid-range bike and a top-end superbike is perhaps 5-15 watts. The difference between a well-trained and poorly-trained rider is 50-100+ watts. Spend on a bike fit before spending on a bike.
What is the fastest way to increase cycling speed?
Fix your riding position for aerodynamics (free speed, immediate effect), polarise your training distribution (6-8 weeks for results), and add one structured threshold or VO2max session per week (6-12 weeks for FTP gains). These three changes together can add 2-4 km/h over a single training block without buying anything.
Should I focus on cadence to go faster?
Cadence is a personal preference, not a speed lever. Research shows that self-selected cadence (typically 80-95 rpm) is usually close to the physiological sweet spot. Forcing a much higher or lower cadence does not save energy or produce more power for most riders. Focus on the things that actually move the needle: position, training structure, and FTP.

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