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Coaching7 min read

DOES AERO MATTER FOR AMATEUR CYCLISTS? THE HONEST ANSWER (AND WHAT TO SPEND ON FIRST)

By Anthony Walsh

Aero is one of the first things the sport tries to sell you once you start taking it seriously. Deep-section wheels, a slippery frame, a skinsuit, a teardrop helmet — all of it carrying the same promise: free speed. And running quietly underneath that promise is a second idea, that this stuff is really for the pros, the time triallists and the triathletes, and that the rest of us are mostly buying the look.

So here's the honest question, and it's the one I get asked at the coffee stop more than almost any other. Does aero actually matter for the everyday rider — the one doing club runs and the odd sportive — or is it expensive nonsense dressed up in the language of marginal gains?

The short answer is that it matters a great deal. The longer answer, the one worth your time, is that it almost never matters in the way you've been sold it. The biggest aero gains available to you are the cheapest ones going, and most riders walk straight past them on the way to the parts they can't really afford.

The Fact That Changes Everything

Picture yourself rolling along a flat road at a decent clip. What's slowing you down? Most people instinctively think about the bike — the tyres, the chain, the rolling stuff. But on the flat at any real speed, the single biggest thing fighting you is air. You are pushing a hole in the atmosphere, and the faster you go, the harder the air shoves back.

Now here's the part that reframes the whole conversation. Of all that air resistance, the bike is the small contributor. You are the big one. Your body, sat up there in the wind, makes up something in the region of 70 to 80% of the total drag. The frame, the wheels, the bars — all of it together is the minority share.

Sit with that for a second, because it quietly rewrites every spending decision you're about to make. The part of the system that matters most for going faster is the part that costs you nothing to change. You don't buy a better body position off a shelf. You just decide to adopt one.

That's exactly why the marketing never opens with it. There's no product in "sit differently."

Why The Free Stuff Beats The Expensive Stuff

If most of the drag is you, then the single biggest thing you can possibly do is change the shape you make in the wind. And the good news is that this is the simplest, cheapest intervention in all of cycling.

Drop your chest a touch. Pull your elbows in so your forearms aren't sitting out there like a pair of open doors catching everything. Get your hands onto the hoods, and into the drops when the road's fast or the wind's in your face, and let your back flatten out rather than sitting bolt upright. Every one of those costs nothing, and every one of them is available to you on your very next ride. There's no break-in period, no postage, no waiting for a sale.

The second-best change is almost as unglamorous: wear kit that fits. A jersey flapping around in the wind is, in a very real sense, a brake you have paid money to wear. A close-cut jersey that you can zip all the way up holds its shape and lets the air slide cleanly past you. Properly fitted clothing actually can be worth more watts than a component upgrade costing ten or twenty times as much. It is, pound for pound, the best-value speed most amateurs never get around to buying.

And only once the free things are sorted does spending money start to make any sense at all. Even then there's a sensible order. An aero helmet is decent value and easy to live with day to day. Frames and deep wheels come last — they deliver real gains, but they're the smallest returns for the largest outlay, and you only feel the benefit once you're already moving quickly.

It's worth being blunt about why this order gets ignored. It's not because riders are daft. It's because the free changes don't come with a box, a launch video or a logo, and the expensive ones do. The industry is very good at selling you the last 5% before you've claimed the first 30 that was sitting there for nothing.

When Aero Quietly Stops Mattering

Now the other side of the coin, the bit the wheel adverts tend to leave out.

Aero is speed-dependent. The relationship between your speed and the power you need to overcome the air is steep — push the speed up and the cost climbs sharply. Which means the reverse is just as true. Slow right down and the whole thing fades away.

That's precisely what happens on a steep climb. You're grinding upward at single-figure speeds, there's barely any meaningful wind resistance left to fight, and the force you're actually battling is gravity. On that gradient your fancy deep wheels are doing close to nothing, and the things that matter are your weight and your power-to-weight ratio.

So the really useful question isn't "is aero worth it?" floating in the abstract. It's "what does my riding actually look like?" If your weekends are rolling roads and flat group rides at a good pace, aero is the best free speed available to you and you should claim it. If your happy place is a long alpine climb, then your engine and your weight matter more, and you can stop feeling guilty about your ordinary wheels.

For most of us the answer is a mix of both, which is the honest reason both weight and aero get talked about so much. But the mix doesn't change the priority. The free aero gains are still the first thing to claim, because they cost nothing and they help on every flat and rolling metre you ride.

The Trade-Off Worth Respecting

One warning before you fold yourself in half chasing the lowest possible number on a screen. The most extreme position is not automatically the fastest one. Get too low, too scrunched, too aggressive, and you can choke off your breathing, close down your hip angle and lose some of the very power you were trying to deliver. A smaller frontal area is no use to anyone if it quietly costs you fifteen watts of engine in the process.

The target is not "as low as humanly possible." It's the lowest, narrowest position you can actually hold — comfortably, with your normal power, for as long as the ride demands. That's a bike-fit question every bit as much as an aero one, which is why getting your position properly dialled comes before chasing any of the numbers. A good fit and a sustainable aero position are the same project.

What To Actually Do This Week

You don't need a wind tunnel or a power meter to start. On your next ride, pay attention to your elbows and pull them in. Spend more time on the hoods with a flatter back, and get into the drops when the pace lifts. Notice how your jersey sits, and the next time you're buying kit, buy something that fits close and zips up fully rather than something billowing.

Do those things and you'll have claimed the large majority of the aero gains available to you, for roughly the price of nothing. Then, if and when you want to spend, you'll be spending in the right order — kit, then helmet, then the heavy-money parts — instead of starting at the most expensive end and wondering why the bike feels much the same.

Aero isn't a pro-only luxury and it isn't a con. It's real, it's free where it counts, and it's been sitting on your own bike the whole time. The riders who get faster for nothing are simply the ones who claimed it before they reached for their wallet.

If you want to talk this through with people working on exactly the same thing — the position tweaks, the kit, the honest spending decisions — come and join the free Roadman community. It's a thriving group of serious amateurs and there's no charge to get in.

FAQ

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Does aerodynamics actually matter for amateur cyclists?
Yes. On flat and rolling roads at normal club-run speeds, aerodynamic drag is the single biggest force you're fighting, so it matters for everyday riders, not just pros. The difference is where the gains come from — because your body makes most of the drag, position and clothing help far more than expensive parts. Aero stops mattering on steep climbs, where you ride slowly and weight dominates.
How much of cycling drag comes from the rider versus the bike?
Around 70–80% of the total aerodynamic drag of the bike-and-rider system comes from the rider's body, with the bike making up the smaller share. That's why reshaping your position is the biggest change you can make — you are the biggest object in the wind.
What's the cheapest way to be more aero?
Free changes first: tuck your elbows, ride on the hoods or in the drops with a flatter back, and reduce your frontal area. Then kit that fits — a close-cut, fully-zipped jersey beats a flapping one and costs a fraction of a wheelset. Only after that does an aero helmet, then frames and wheels, make sense.
Is aero or weight more important?
It depends on terrain. On the flat and rolling roads at speed, aero wins because drag dominates and rises sharply with speed. On long steep climbs at low speed, weight and power-to-weight win because you're fighting gravity. Most amateurs ride a mix, so both matter — but they nearly always under-invest in the free aero gains.
Are aero wheels worth it for an amateur?
They give a real but modest gain, and only at higher speeds — and they're the worst value for money of all the aero options. If you haven't sorted your position and clothing first, both far cheaper, then aero wheels are paying a premium for a smaller gain than the free one in front of you.

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AW

ANTHONY WALSH

Host of the Roadman Cycling Podcast

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