WHO THIS IS FOR
IS THIS YOU?
The rider frustrated by slow headwind days
You get demoralised when your average speed drops 3-5 km/h into a headwind and want a practical framework for riding in windy conditions.
The cyclist nervous about crosswinds
You have been caught by a strong crosswind and felt unstable, and you want to know how to ride safely when it is blowing from the side.
THE ROADMAN VIEW
The Roadman view
Wind is the most misunderstood variable in cycling. Riders treat a headwind as a personal insult — they see their speed drop from 30 to 24 km/h and start hammering harder to compensate. This is the worst possible response. The physics are simple: aerodynamic drag scales with the square of airspeed (your speed plus the headwind speed). Riding at 30 km/h into a 15 km/h headwind gives you the same drag as riding at 45 km/h in still air. To maintain your normal speed, you would need to increase power by 30-50%. That is threshold effort for what should be a Zone 2 ride. The correct approach is to ride to power, not speed, and accept that your average speed will be lower on windy days.
John Archibald has spoken about how even small aero gains become disproportionately valuable in a headwind. A more aerodynamic position that saves 15 watts in still air might save 25-30 watts in a headwind because the effective airspeed is higher. Get into the drops or ride on the hoods with bent elbows, tuck your head behind your hands, and make yourself as narrow as possible. If you are riding with others, rotate through and share the work — the rider on the front is doing 25-40% more work than the riders behind in a headwind.
Crosswinds are a different beast entirely. A headwind is predictable — you push harder and go slower. A crosswind pushes you laterally, and gusts at gaps in hedgerows, buildings, or passing lorries can physically move you across the road. The technique is straightforward: keep a firm grip on the bars (hoods or drops, never the tops in a crosswind), stay low to lower your centre of gravity, lean slightly into the wind, and be prepared for sudden gusts when shelter disappears. If you are in a group, the echelon formation (staggered line angled into the wind) is the most efficient formation, but it requires practice and trust.
EXPERT EVIDENCE
WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY
- John ArchibaldHour Record holder, aerodynamics specialist
In a headwind, the effective airspeed over your body is much higher than your ground speed, which means aerodynamic position matters even more than on a calm day. A rider who does not change their position in a headwind is wasting watts on drag that a simple tuck would eliminate. The gains from being aero are amplified, not diminished, by wind.
Hear it: How To Ride Faster Than 98% Of People | John Archibald - Matt BottrillMultiple national time-trial champion, cycling coach
Pacing in the wind is where most amateurs fail in time trials and sportives. They ride too hard into the headwind sections, arrive at the tailwind sections fatigued, and cannot capitalise on the easy speed. The correct approach is even power throughout — slightly slower into the wind, slightly faster with the wind, same effort all the way.
Hear it: 7 Hacks Pro Riders Use That You Probably Don't | Matt Bottrill
PRACTICAL APPLICATION
DO THIS WEEK
Pace to power, not speed, on windy days
Set your head unit to display power or heart rate as the primary field, not speed. If your planned ride is Zone 2 at 180 watts, hold 180 watts regardless of whether your speed is 22 or 32 km/h. The wind determines speed; your effort determines training stimulus. Do not chase a speed number that the wind has made irrelevant.
Adopt your most aerodynamic position into headwinds
Drop to the hoods or drops, bend your elbows to 90 degrees, tuck your head behind your hands, and narrow your shoulders. This can reduce frontal area by 20-30%, saving 15-30 watts at typical amateur speeds. In a headwind, these savings are amplified because effective airspeed is higher. Practise the position on calm days so it feels natural when the wind picks up.
Ride in a group and share the work into headwinds
If riding with others, use a single paceline (one rider behind another) into a headwind, rotating the front rider every 30-60 seconds. The rider on the front does 25-40% more work than those behind. In a crosswind, use an echelon (staggered diagonal line offset into the wind) to maximise drafting while staying within the road width.
COMMON MISTAKES
WHAT CYCLISTS GET WRONG
MISTAKEFighting the headwind by riding above planned intensity.
FIXRiding harder into a headwind does not maintain speed — drag scales with the square of airspeed, so the energy cost escalates rapidly. Hold your planned power and accept the slower speed. You will be fresher for the return leg or the rest of the ride.
MISTAKERiding on the tops of the handlebars in a crosswind.
FIXThe tops offer the least control and leverage. In a crosswind, ride on the hoods or drops where you have firm grip and braking access. Keep your weight centred and be ready to correct your line when gusts hit.
MISTAKEIgnoring the tailwind and coasting instead of pressing.
FIXA tailwind is free speed — you get more kilometres per watt than on a calm day. Maintain your normal effort level and enjoy the higher speed rather than easing off. Even power throughout the ride (harder speed into the wind, faster speed with the wind) produces the best overall time.
FAQ
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
How much does a headwind slow you down?
Is it better to ride into the headwind first or with the tailwind first?
How much energy does drafting save in a headwind?
Are deep-section wheels dangerous in crosswinds?
Should I change my gear selection in a headwind?
How do I handle sudden gusts while riding?
RELATED EPISODES
HEAR THE CONVERSATIONS
RELATED TOPICS