Skip to content
COHORT 3 COMING SOONNot Done Yet coaching · Apply for 24-hour early access
Le Metier9 min read

THE SURPRISING DOWNSIDE OF WRONG CYCLING SHOES — COURTNEY CONLEY

By Anthony Walsh·
Share
The Surprising Downside of Wrong Cycling Shoes — Courtney Conley

Most cyclists spend hours researching frame geometry, tyre pressures, and training zones. Their shoes get a cursory size check at the shop counter. That mismatch matters because the foot is the only contact point where force transfers directly from the body into the drivetrain — and any energy that escapes there is gone.

Podiatrist Courtney Conley joined Anthony Walsh on the Roadman Cycling Podcast (ep-2107) to walk through what goes wrong, why standard bike fits often miss it, and what a podiatric assessment adds. Her perspective cuts through a lot of the folklore around cycling shoe fit and replaces it with anatomy. This article draws on that conversation.

The three fit problems most cyclists have

Conley identifies three problems that account for the majority of cycling-related foot and knee complaints she sees in clinic. They are: cleat position that doesn't match the rider's individual metatarsal anatomy, a shoe that's the wrong width for the forefoot, and inadequate or inappropriate arch support. These three often occur together, which makes self-diagnosis frustrating — fix one and symptoms shift rather than disappear.

The most common presenting complaint is knee pain on longer rides. It's usually attributed to saddle height or cleat float, and those are worth checking first. But Conley's point is that the foot itself is frequently the source rather than a downstream casualty. A foot that pronates excessively, or one that's being compressed laterally by a too-narrow shoe, produces abnormal force vectors all the way up the kinetic chain to the knee and hip.

Hot spots and forefoot numbness are the second cluster of complaints. These almost always trace to shoe width. The third is a vaguer sense of fatigue or inefficiency — riders who feel like they're working harder than their training suggests they should be. That one is the subtlest and the hardest to quantify, but Conley's clinical observation is consistent with the physics: a foot moving inside a poorly fitted shoe is dissipating energy with every pedal stroke.

If you're already working through a bike fit guide and finding that saddle and cleat adjustments don't resolve knee pain, the shoe itself is worth interrogating before you make further positional changes.

Cleat position: the 2mm that matters

The standard teaching is to position the cleat so the pedal axle sits directly under the first metatarsal head — the bony prominence behind the big toe. That's correct as far as it goes, but Conley's point is that most cyclists and many fitters identify that landmark imprecisely. A 2mm error in cleat placement changes the lever arm acting on the knee across thousands of pedal revolutions in a single ride.

The first metatarsal head is not always easy to locate through a shoe, particularly with a stiff carbon sole. Conley recommends marking the landmark on the foot before the shoe goes on — press firmly along the plantar surface until you find the prominence, mark it with a pen or tape, then put the shoe on and transfer the reference point to the outside of the shoe. That gives you an accurate target for the cleat centre-line.

Fore-aft placement is only half of it. Rotational alignment — the angle of the cleat relative to the shoe's long axis — must match each rider's natural foot angle. Most people have some degree of toe-out. Forcing a neutral cleat angle on a foot that naturally tracks at 10-15 degrees of external rotation loads the medial knee structures with every pedal stroke. Float in the cleat system buys some margin, but Conley's preference is to set the cleat angle correctly rather than rely on float to compensate for poor alignment.

Lateral position of the cleat (the Q-factor dimension) affects hip and knee tracking. Riders with wider hips relative to their femoral length often need the foot positioned further outboard, which some pedal systems accommodate with axle extenders rather than cleat adjustment alone.

Width and volume — the ignored dimension

Shoe width is the dimension that bike shop staff and bike fitters most consistently overlook, partly because the industry spent decades producing shoes in a single width. That has improved — Bont, Shimano, and Sidi all offer wide lasts — but the default assumption in most fitting environments is still that width is handled by sizing up in length, which it isn't.

Conley's clinical rule of thumb is that the widest part of the shoe's forefoot should match the widest part of the foot with a small margin for natural splay under load. When a cyclist stands on a pedal and applies force, the forefoot spreads. A shoe that fits correctly at rest will compress the forefoot under load if there isn't sufficient width built into the last. That compression restricts circulation — hence the hot spots and numbness that typically appear 45-60 minutes into a ride, not at the start.

Volume is the vertical dimension of the shoe's toe box. Riders with a high instep or thick forefoot encounter a different problem: the upper presses down on the dorsum of the foot, compressing the extensor tendons and producing a burning sensation across the top of the foot. This is common in shoes with aggressive buckle or boa retention systems that pull the upper flat across the foot.

The practical fix is to measure foot width at the widest point (across the metatarsal heads), measure foot length, and then compare both to the manufacturer's last specifications rather than defaulting to street shoe size. Most manufacturers publish last width for their models. Use those numbers.

Arch support myths

The cycling industry has generated a lot of noise around arch support, most of it imprecise. The prevalent myth is that more arch support is always better — that a high, rigid arch insert improves power transfer by eliminating foot collapse. Conley's clinical position is more conditional than that.

Arch support is appropriate when the foot needs it — specifically, when the longitudinal arch collapses under load in a way that causes the heel and forefoot to move into a pronated relationship. For those riders, support under the medial arch reduces tibial internal rotation and the associated medial knee stress. The improvement in knee tracking is structural, not theoretical.

For riders with a neutral or high arch, however, adding arch support can create pressure problems rather than solve them. A high-arch foot doesn't collapse; it needs accommodative cushioning under the heel and metatarsals rather than a supportive post under the arch. Putting a high-arch insole under a high-arch foot increases plantar pressure at the apex of the arch and can cause lateral knee stress by overcorrecting alignment.

The takeaway is that arch support decisions should follow an assessment of what the individual foot actually does under load, not a general belief that stiffer is better. That assessment doesn't require a clinical consultation in every case — the foam impression kits that some fitters use are a reasonable starting screen — but it does require looking at the foot rather than buying an insole off a recommendation.

When custom insoles help

Custom orthotics and custom insoles are not the same thing, and Conley draws the distinction clearly. A custom orthotic is a medical device prescribed and fabricated following a clinical gait assessment. It addresses specific pathology — significant pronation, supination, leg-length discrepancy, structural deformity. A custom insole is a volume-filling, comfort-optimising device made from a foot impression, often at a bike shop or sports retailer, and it sits somewhere between an off-the-shelf product and a true orthotic.

Both have their place. Conley's view is that off-the-shelf performance insoles — Superfeet, Sidas, G8 Performance — resolve the majority of fit problems when the shoe width and cleat position are already correct. If those are wrong, no insole compensates. Conversely, if a rider has already optimised shoe width, cleat position, and rotational alignment, and knee or foot symptoms persist through rides longer than two hours, a custom assessment is warranted.

The riders who most consistently benefit from true custom orthotics are those with a structural leg-length discrepancy greater than 4mm, significant rearfoot varus or valgus, or a history of foot pathology (plantar fasciitis, Morton's neuroma, tibialis posterior dysfunction). For those cases, the orthotic changes the biomechanical input to the pedal stroke in ways that a shaped insole cannot replicate.

If you're working with a coaching programme that includes bike-leg analysis, flagging foot and shoe fit issues early means those problems get addressed before they become embedded in your pedalling mechanics.

The shoe-buying checklist

Conley's practical advice for cyclists buying new shoes, distilled from the podcast conversation and her clinical practice:

Measure both feet, standing, in the afternoon when foot volume is at its daily maximum. Use a Brannock device or a flat ruler and tape measure. Record length and width for each foot separately — asymmetry of 5mm or more in length is common and affects cleat placement.

Identify your foot type before you buy. Wet-foot print on a paper bag is a crude but usable screen: a full print with no arch gap indicates a low or flat arch, a narrow mid-section indicates a neutral arch, and a very narrow connection between heel and forefoot indicates a high arch. Each type has different support and cushioning requirements.

Match the measurement to the last, not the label. Contact the manufacturer if their published last dimensions aren't available on their website. Some brands build their shoes on a single last across the entire size range; others vary the width proportionally. That distinction matters.

Buy shoes that fit correctly in width at the time of purchase. Do not expect them to stretch into width. Cycling shoes with carbon or fibreglass soles don't deform under pressure the way running shoes do.

Check cleat compatibility before you buy — three-bolt road cleats, two-bolt SPD, and proprietary systems aren't interchangeable without an adapter, and adapters add stack height.

Finally, allow one to two weeks of riding in new shoes before making fine positional adjustments. Some initial discomfort from a stiffer sole is normal. Pain that persists beyond a fortnight, or that gets worse rather than better, is a signal to revisit fit rather than train through it.

For a broader look at the intersection of podiatry, foot mechanics, and cycling performance, the full conversation with Courtney Conley is available on the podcast. The episode covers forefoot varus wedging, cleat float selection, and the specific fitting challenges for triathlon cycling shoes — where the run leg adds a constraint that pure road shoe fitting doesn't account for.

KEEP READING — THE SATURDAY SPIN

The week's training takeaways, pro insights, and what to do about them. 65,000+ serious cyclists open it every Saturday.

AW

ANTHONY WALSH

Host of the Roadman Cycling Podcast

Share

RELATED PODCAST EPISODES

Hear the conversations behind this article.