If you're still running inner tubes on your mountain bike, you're making every ride harder than it needs to be. Tubeless is the single most impactful upgrade you can make — more grip, fewer flats, and the ability to run lower pressures that transform how your bike handles rough terrain.
The conversion itself is straightforward. It takes about thirty minutes per wheel, costs less than a decent pair of grips, and once it's done you'll wonder why you waited so long.
Why Go Tubeless?
Inner tubes are the weakest link on any mountain bike. They pinch flat when you hit rocks at low pressure. They add rotating weight. And they force you to run higher pressures than you'd like, which means less grip and a harsher ride.
Tubeless tyres seal directly to the rim with no tube inside. Instead, liquid sealant sloshes around inside the tyre, automatically plugging small punctures from thorns, sharp stones, and other trail debris. Most of the time you won't even know you've had a puncture — the sealant seals it before you lose any noticeable pressure.
The real game changer is pressure. Without the risk of pinch flats, you can drop your tyre pressures significantly. Lower pressure means a bigger contact patch, which means more grip in corners, better traction on climbs, and a smoother ride over roots and rocks. If you've dialled in your suspension using our MTB Setup Calculator, lower tyre pressures are the next step to getting even more from your setup.
What You Need
Before you start, gather everything. There's nothing worse than getting halfway through and realising you're missing something.
Essential kit:
- Tubeless rim tape (width should match or slightly exceed your internal rim width)
- Tubeless valves (Presta, with the correct length for your rim depth)
- Tubeless sealant (60-90ml per tyre — Stan's, Orange Seal, Muc-Off, and Peaty's all work well)
- Tyre levers
- A sharp blade or scissors
- Isopropyl alcohol and a clean rag
- A floor pump with a pressure gauge (a compressor or tubeless inflator makes seating easier but isn't essential)
- Soapy water in a spray bottle (optional but very helpful)
Tyre compatibility: Make sure your tyres are tubeless-ready (TLR) or UST. Non-tubeless tyres have porous casings that won't hold air even with sealant. Most modern MTB tyres from Maxxis, Schwalbe, Continental, and Michelin have tubeless-compatible options — look for "TR", "TLR", or "Tubeless Ready" on the sidewall.
Step-by-Step Conversion
Step 1: Remove the Old Setup
Take the wheel off the bike. Deflate completely and remove the old tyre and inner tube. If there's old rim tape, peel it all off. You want a clean, bare rim bed.
Step 2: Clean the Rim Bed
Wipe the entire inner surface of the rim bed with isopropyl alcohol and a clean rag. This removes grease, dirt, and adhesive residue. The tape needs a perfectly clean surface to stick and seal properly. Don't skip this step — it's the difference between a reliable seal and a slow leak that drives you mad.
Step 3: Apply Tubeless Tape
Starting opposite the valve hole, press the end of the tape firmly onto the rim bed. Wrap the tape around the rim, keeping it centred over the spoke holes and maintaining consistent tension. Overlap the starting point by at least 10cm. Press the tape down firmly with your thumbs as you go, especially over the spoke holes — you want zero air gaps.
One full wrap is usually sufficient for rims with a smooth, sealed bed. If your rim has visible spoke holes, consider doing two wraps for extra security.
Step 4: Install the Valve
Find the valve hole and use a sharp point (a small Phillips screwdriver works well) to poke through the tape. Push the tubeless valve through from inside the rim, and tighten the lock ring from the outside until snug. Don't go gorilla on it — finger-tight plus a quarter turn with pliers is enough. Over-tightening can deform the tape seal.
Step 5: Mount the Tyre
Fit one bead of the tyre onto the rim. Before fitting the second bead, pour in your sealant — 60ml for a trail tyre, 90ml for a plus-size or enduro tyre. Alternatively, you can seat the tyre first and add sealant through the valve core (remove it with a valve core tool, pour sealant in, replace core).
Fit the second bead. This is usually the fiddly part. Start opposite the valve and work both directions, pushing the bead into the centre channel of the rim as you go. The centre channel has a smaller diameter, which gives you the slack you need to get the last section over the rim edge.
Step 6: Seat the Tyre Bead
This is the moment of truth. Inflate quickly — you need a big burst of air volume to push the bead outward into the rim hooks. A floor pump works on most tyre and rim combinations, but if you're struggling, try these tricks:
- Remove the valve core to allow maximum airflow, then inflate and quickly thread the core back in once the bead pops into place.
- Spray soapy water around both beads — it lubricates them and helps them slide into the hooks.
- Use a tubeless inflator or compressor for a faster air burst.
You'll hear a series of loud pops or clicks as the bead seats into the rim hooks. That's exactly what you want. Check both sides of the tyre to make sure the bead is seated evenly all the way around.
Step 7: Shake and Spin
With the tyre inflated, shake the wheel vigorously and spin it in different orientations. The sealant needs to coat the entire inner surface of the tyre, especially the bead area where tyre meets rim. Lay the wheel flat, spin it, flip it, and repeat. Two minutes of shaking is plenty.
Step 8: Set Your Pressure
Inflate to your desired riding pressure. Without the pinch-flat risk, you can typically run 3-5 PSI lower than you did with tubes. A good starting point for trail riding is 24-28 PSI front and 26-30 PSI rear, depending on your weight, tyre width, and terrain. Lighter riders can go lower.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Slow leak around the valve: Tighten the lock ring slightly. If that doesn't fix it, remove the valve and check that the tape has a clean hole — if it's torn or ragged, re-tape that section.
Slow leak at the bead: Deflate, break the bead, and check the tape. If it's wrinkled, peeling, or not covering a spoke hole properly, re-tape. Soapy water sprayed around the seated bead will show you exactly where air is escaping as bubbles.
Tyre won't seat: Make sure both beads are pushed into the centre channel before inflating. Remove the valve core for maximum airflow. Use soapy water. If a floor pump can't do it, you need a compressor or a tubeless inflator canister.
Sealant spraying out of the tyre sidewall: This sometimes happens with lighter-casing tyres. Inflate, shake, and leave the wheel upright for a few hours. The sealant usually plugs sidewall weeping on its own. If it persists, you may need a tyre with a more robust casing.
When to Refresh Your Sealant
Sealant doesn't last forever. It gradually dries out inside the tyre, leaving behind a layer of dried latex (that booger-like residue you see when you eventually unseat a tubeless tyre). In temperate climates, expect to top up every three to four months. In hot, dry conditions, check every two months.
To check sealant level without removing the tyre, take out the valve core and poke a thin cable tie or stick inside. If it comes out wet, you're fine. If it's dry or just has a thin coating, add 30-60ml of fresh sealant through the valve (a syringe with a tube makes this painless).
Once or twice a year, unseat the tyre completely, clean out the dried sealant residue, and add a fresh charge. This is also a good time to inspect the tape and tyre for wear.
Is It Worth It?
Absolutely. Tubeless is one of those upgrades where once you've experienced it, you genuinely cannot go back. The combination of fewer flats, better grip, and a more comfortable ride at lower pressures adds up to a noticeably better time on the trail. Every ride, every surface, every condition.
If you've already dialled in your fork and shock settings — and if you haven't, our MTB Setup Calculator will sort that — tubeless is the logical next step. It's cheap, it's easy enough to do at home, and it pays dividends every single time you ride.
Spend the thirty minutes. You'll thank yourself on the first rocky descent.
