I know riders with a trainer worth more than their first car who haven't clipped in since March. I've also known riders who got a winter of good work done on a second-hand trainer and a pedestal fan.
The difference was never the kit. It was how many things stood between them and the first pedal stroke.
This week's episode is about that gap. Here's the practical version: an audit you can do in ten minutes, and what I'd buy once you've done it.
Step one: count the friction
Walk through what happens when you decide to ride. Not what should happen. What does happen.
Where's the bike? If it's in the shed and needs wheels swapped, that's one step. Where's your kit? In the wash, or the drawer, or the spare room? Is the trainer plugged in, the app updated, the fan working, a bottle filled? Is the session decided, or do you spend ten minutes scrolling for a workout?
Write down every step. Most people find between six and ten. Each is a point at which you can decide not to bother. The aim is to get it under three: put kit on, get on, press start.
This costs nothing, and it does more for adherence than any purchase.
Step two: fix the heat
If you do one thing with money, spend it on moving air. Indoors, you lose less heat, so the same power feels harder, the session feels worse and you stop sooner. A fan pointing at your chest, and a second from the side if you can, makes the biggest difference per pound I know of. The pain cave setup guide has the detail on placement.
Step three: what's worth buying
Once friction and cooling are sorted, a short list changes the session:
- A stable trainer. One that doesn't creak, slip or shift. If your power readings are noisy or the noise annoys the house, that's the signal. If you're considering a smart trainer, the 2026 comparison is where to start.
- A screen you can see. At eye level, without craning your neck. A laptop on the floor wrecks a long session.
- A position you can hold. A mat, a front-wheel block to level the bike, a towel and a way to keep the saddle from slipping.
- Entertainment that suits the session. Different riders need different things. Some need a film, some need a structured workout with a voice in their ear.
What to skip, at least at first
Anything that adds complexity without changing what you do on the bike. Extra sensors, screens, accessories and subscription layers can wait. In the first weeks of winter, the habit is fragile, and each new thing is another point of failure. Add one at a time and only if a specific problem asks for it.
The cheap fixes I'd do tonight
- Leave the bike on the trainer.
- Put tomorrow's kit by the door.
- Load the session before you go to bed.
- Put the fan where you can reach the switch from the saddle.
That's it. Total cost: about nothing.
A note on motivation
Be careful with the idea that you need to feel motivated. Most sessions start without it. What you need is a setup that makes starting easy and a session short enough to survive a bad day. Those are the things you can control.
If the session itself is the problem, look at what's in it. Indoor training mistakes that kill your winter covers the usual causes, and the indoor training setup guide goes through the whole space.
Show us your setup in the free Roadman community on Skool: https://www.skool.com/roadmancycling
If you want a winter plan built around your week, applications are open for the "Not Done Yet" coaching programme at www.roadmancycling.com/apply.